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WHY BUY IN AQUITAINE?
With 180 miles of white, sandy beaches backing onto endless pine
forests and picturesque lakes, coastal Aquitaine is in plentiful
supply and so remains highly affordable. While this Atlantic
coastline boasts the best surfing in Europe it also caters for
traditional seaside activities in the family-friendly resorts of
Arcachon and Biarritz. And, as the region extends south into the
foothills of the Pyrénées, there is also good hiking and skiing on
offer. In short, the region is a sound investment for those who
can’t decide between sea or mountain, or who want to offer both to
paying guests.
In addition this is the world’s largest wine-growing region with
names like Médoc, St-Emilion, Pomerol and Sauternes surrounding the
bustling, cosmopolitan port of Bordeaux which has spread their fame
across the world. And then there’s lush, verdant Dordogne, so
beloved of the English, who conquered it in the Hundred Years’ War
and who have been so reluctant to leave ever since. Can you blame
them?
AQUITAINE DEPARTEMENTS: Dordogne, Gironde, Landes,
Lot-et-Garonne, Pyrénées-Atlantiques
MAJOR TOWNS IN AQUITAINE: Bordeaux, Perigueux, Mont de Marsan,
Pau, Biarritz
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WHAT TO SEE IN AQUITAINE
Bordeaux
Combining elegant 18th century architecture with a lively
cultural scene and the opportunity to indulge in so many of the
regions’ gastronomic delights, Bordeaux is an epicurean or
hedonist’s delight. Best to undertake your cultural explorations
before your first meal.
Must sees include the sumptuous 18th century architecture of the
GrandThéâtre and the Place de la Bourse, and the magnificent bronze
statues and fountains of the Monument aux Girondins on the
Esplannade des Quinconces – in memory of the citizens sent to the
Guillotine by Robespierre during the revolutionary Terror of 1793-5.
If you tire of the spiritually uplifting Eglise St-Seurin, Basilique
St-Michel and Cathédrale St-André, indulge yourself in the Musée des
Beaux Arts with its works by Titian, Rubens, Renoir and Matisse, or
visit the Musée d’Aquitaine with its 2nd century BC Tayac treasure
and the Garonne treasure of over 4,000 Roman coins. Had enough
culture for one day? Need some retail therapy? The chic boutiques
and cafés contained within the triangle formed by Cours Clemenceau,
Cours de l’Intendance and Allées de Tourny will let you shop until
you drop.
St-Émilion
A charming village of narrow streets lined with medieval houses,
St-Émilion is surrounded by its famous châteaux such as
Figeac, Cheval Blanc and Ausone. The town was named after the
8th-century hermit, Émilion, who dug out a cave for himself in the
rock. For slightly more comfortable surroundings, make a beeline for
l’Essential wine bar where – if you can get over the gaudy décor –
you can choose from a wide choice of great wines and where you might
even bump into the winemakers who made them.
Bordeaux Wine
The alchemy of blending different grape varieties with the
‘terroir’ has reached its apogee in the wines of Bordeaux. The
famous 1855 classification of Médoc’s ‘crus classés’ (classed
growths) provides a hierarchy or ‘league table’ of wine-producing
châteaux that still holds good (with a few additions) today.
The five main red grape varieties are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot,
Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot (not a small glass of water!) and
Malbec. On the gravelly soils west of the Gironde, Cabernet
Sauvignon is the dominant grape in the blend; while on the clayey
soils east of the Gironde, Merlot dominates. The main grape
varieties for white wines are Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc.
Medoc’s most famous chateaux boasting ‘Premier Grands Crus
Classés’ are: Château Lafite-Rothschild, Château Latour and Château
Mouton-Rothschild (at Pauillac); Château Margaux (at Margaux);
Château Saint-Estèphe (Cos d’Estournel) and Château Saint-Julien (Léoville
Las Cases).
Also on the left bank, Graves’ most famous chateau is
Château Haut-Brion and Sauternes’ is Château Yquem – the
jewel of the appellation.
Head north out of Bordeaux on the D2 to see some of these famous
chateaux – architectural highlights include the Neo-Renaissance
Chateau Palmer, the Pallladian Chateau Margaux and the fairy-tale
turrets and lakeside setting of Chateau Pichon-Longueville. See if
you can spot Chateau Latour’s medieval stone turret from the
depiction on its famous label.
On the right bank Pomerol reaches its zenith at Château
Pétrus and Saint-Émilion’s finest wines are crafted by the
chateaux of Cheval-Blanc, Ausone, Beauséjour-Bécot, Belair, La
Gaffelière and Pavie.
Unless you have an official invite by way of a paid-for tasting
or course (see * below), you will find it difficult to just roll up,
taste and buy at some of these world-renowned chateaux. Happily many
châteaux who produce wine cheek by jowl with famous neighbours – and
who share their terroir - do positively welcome visitiors. Just
outside St-Emilion try Château Fonplégade; and to the east, off the
D243, try Château Balestard la Tonnelle and Château Mangot. Just
across the river from Pomerol, is Lalande-de-Pomerol where - not far
from Château Pétrus - Château des Annereaux and Château Haut
Chaigneau will welcome you with open arms.
*La Maison du Vin and l’Office du Tourisme at Bordeaux and St-Émilion
are essential for wine lovers seeking to understand the byzantine
complexities of Bordeaux’s chateaux system.They organise tastings,
courses and excursions to some of the top chateaux such as Château
Yquem.
l’Office de Tourisme de Bordeaux
Tel.(0)5 56 00 66 00 or
resavisit@bordeaux-tourisme.com
L’Agence des Grands Crus
Tel. (0)5 57 22 16 31 or
agence-des-grands-crus@wanadoo.fr
Maison du Vin de Saint-Émilion
Tel. (0)5 57 55 50 55 or
info@vins-saint-emilion.com
Arcachon Bay: this beautiful natural lagoon has fine
sheltered beaches and is perfect for holidaymakers, sailing
enthusiasts and oyster-eaters. You can also climb Europe’s biggest
sand dune, Le Dune du Pilat, and skinny-dip in the sea to cool off
afterwards!
The Dordogne and its prehistoric sites
What the Brits call the Dordogne (after the river and
Département’s official name), the French themselves call the
Périgord and it is split into four colour-coded parts.
In the north is the Périgord Vert, as its name suggests, a
lush, green area with towns such as Brantôme and Ribérac
and the river Dronne. The Périgord Blanc (named after the
local limestone) covers the central area including Périgeux,
the capital city of the département. Périgord Pourpre (so
called because of the vineyards) is the southern area and includes
the airport town of Bergerac, it is a heavily wooded area and
has some fine châteaux and pretty medieval villages. Périgord
Noir (after the black winter silhouettes of its many oaks) lies
in the east, here the river Dordogne runs through an area famed for
beautiful historic towns such as Sarlat, Le Bugue and
St Cyprien, and for prehistoric sites such as Lascaux
and les Eyzies-de-Tayac. The most famous inhabitant is the
celebrated truffle – the ‘black diamond’ of the Périgord.
Brantôme
Extremely picturesque Brantôme is sometimes called the
Venice of the Périgord Vert as it is surrounded on all sides by the
river Dronne.
Périgueux
Capital of the Dordogne département, Périgueux is also a
gastronomic capital and is best visited on market days (Wednesday
and Saturday mornings) when its stalls groan under the weight of
fruit, vegetables, charcuterie, truffles and the succulent pies
called pâtés de Périgueux. La Cité quarter is built on the
Gallo-Roman settlement of Vesunna, and the remains of a temple,
villa and an arena can still be seen, as can other vestiges at the
Domus de Vesonne museum which has just opened on the site.
In the medieval quarter of Le Puy St-Front you will find
Cathédrale St-Front, the largest cathedral in South West France, and
the Musée du Périgord. Many medieval and Renaissance dwellings can
be found in rue Aubergerie and rue de la Constitution. Don’t miss
the unusual corkscrew staircase at No.3 rue Limogeanne.
Sarlat
is a living open-air museum with more medieval and
Renaissance houses than any other town in France. Just follow your
feet through the labyrinth of ochre-coloured cobbled streets and
prepare to be enchanted. Don’t miss Wednesday’s sumptuous food
market – one of the best in France. Nearby Lascaux’s
prehistoric cave paintings are world-famous – but they are copies
designed to protect the originals.Those found in the various grottes
(caves) around Les Eyzies are the genuine articles: bison,
reindeer, horses, mammoths and men can be seen just as our ancestors
left them – painted and engraved onto the rock. Those found in the 5
mile cave network at Rouffignac can be seen by an underground
train – book weeks ahead in summer months!
La Roque-Gageac is officially one of France’s most beautiful
villages, set at the foot of the cliffs it gazes narcissistically on
its own reflection in the waters of the Dordogne river.
Château Castelnaud is possibly the most impressive of the 300
medieval chateaux surrounding Sarlat in the Perigord Noir. It has
unrivalled views over the valley and neighbouring châteaux of
Marqueysssac and Beynac, has no end of battlements,
hiding holes and winding staircases and boasts unusual features such
as working smithies and its own medieval tavern! Château
Castelnaud’s impressive collection of ancient weaponry includes all
manner of fiendish contraptions include the mangonel – the gigantic
catapult used for hurling boulders. The collection inspired director
Ridley Scott’s battle scenes in the Oscar-winning film Gladiator.
Basque Country
The chic resort of Biarritz boasts two casinos and one of
the very last great luxury hotels in Europe – l’Hôtel du Palais. It
also offers good family beaches, the best surfing in Europe and the
Musée du Chocolat! Nearby St-Jean-de-Luz combines the charms
of a Basque fishing village with boutiques worthy of rue du Faubourg
St-Honoré in Paris. Don’t miss the astonishingly beautiful Eglise
St-Jean-Baptiste (where Louis XIV married) or fail to watch the
world go by from Place St-Louis.
Leaving Basque country and approaching the foothills of the
Pyrénées you will find lively, elegant Pau – the capital of
the Béarn area. The most interesting town in the central Pyrénées,
Pau enjoys a mild winter climate but great access to skiing in the
Hautes-Pyrénées. In addition to the elegant Belle Epoque
architecture and shady parks there is the Château de Pau with views
of the snow-capped Pyrenean peaks and its fabulous 16th-century
Gobelin tapestries. On his birth at the château, King Henry IV had
his lips smeared with garlic and local Jurançon wine to ensure his
future good health.
Landes Forest
Dax’s world famous spa treatment centre is in Les Landes
forest between the Atlantic Ocean and the Pyrénées. Its thermal
baths and thalassotherapy treatments can be accessed from several
hotels in the centre of this teeming town. Dax’s hot springs, with a
constant temperature of 64°c, have been soothing aches and pains
since the time of Emperor Augustus.
Mont-de-Marsan
A bullfighting Mecca for the cogniscenti, Mont-de-Marsan also
offers a less blood-thirsty variant – the course landaise – where
the objective is to somersault over the horns of charging cows.
Don’t miss the astonishingly powerful sculpture La Force (1937) by
Raoul Lamourdieu showing a herculean athlete wrestling with a bull.
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FOOD AND DRINK IN AQUITAINE
Tourin (soup make of garlic, goose fat, and vinegar), Foie gras
and truffles from Périgord; Bayonne’s ham and piperade – a fluffy
omlette mixed with ham, garlic and peppers – are both spiced with
the Basque chilli pepper ‘piment d’Espelette’. Confit de Canard
(duck cooked and then preserved in its own fat); Duck with cèpes
(made from confit, wild mushrooms and garlic); Rabbit casseroled
with Agen’s famous prunes; Homard persillé (lobster terrine) and
touron (a Basque marzipan loaf made with pistachios, hazelnuts and
fruit). Locally produced Huile de Noix (Walnut oil) is the
Dordogne’s favourite salad dressing. Goose fat is used for cooking
dishes such as cassoulet and daube de boeuf – and is considered one
of the reasons for the famed longevity of the locals. Gateau aux
noix (walnut cake).
Bordeaux wine (see above) and Monbazillac – Bergerac’s sweet
white wine. Jurançon wines – dry and sweet wines from south of Pau
in the western part of Pyrénées mountains.
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GETTING TO AQUITAINE
AIR
Fly to Bordeaux with ……
British Airways from
Gatwick
Aer Lingus from Dublin
bmibaby from Manchester
and Birmingham
Easyjet from Luton
Fly to Bergerac with ……
Flybe from Birmingham,
Bristol, Southampton, Exeter and Leeds
Ryanair from Nottingham
East Midlands, Liverpool and Stanstead
Fly to Biarritz and Pau with ……
Ryanair from Stanstead and
Dublin
ROAD
Paris
à A10
à Bordeaux
à A63
à Biarritz
à A64
à Pau
COACH: Eurolines (08705 143219,
www.eurolines.com)
offers services to Agen, Arcachon, Bayonne, Bergerac, Biarritz,
Bordeaux and Périgueux
RAIL
London Waterloo/Ashford
à Eurostar
à Paris Nord
à Metro
à Paris Gare Montparnasse
à Bordeaux (TGV)
Paris Gare Austerlitz
à Bayonne
à Biarritz (TGV)
Contact Rail Europe (08705 848848, www.raileurope.co.uk)
for details
EVENTS AND FESTIVALS IN AQUITAINE
Bordeaux Antiques Fair (Late January), International Show Jumping Bordeaux (Early February), Spring Fair Bordeaux (April-May)
, Lacanau Gliss Water Sports festival Lacanau (Early May), Bordeaux Wine festival (Late June-early July), Sarlat Theatre Festival (july – August), International Organ Festival Bordeaux (July-August),
Arcachon Oyster festivals (July-August)
Festival du Périgord Noir : classical music (August – September)
Sinfonia en Périgord : baroque music (August – September)
Marathon du Medoc (September) contestants swig a glass of wine
after each mile and both the winner and the loser win their weight
in wine! (visit
www.marathondumedoc.com)
World Conkers Championship (October) see http://www.ffconkers.org/indexz.htm
Tuesdays Bric-a-brac antiques market Bordeaux (mid October)
Sarlat Film Festival (November)
Contemporary art festival Bordeaux (November)
Bordeaux jazz festival
www.bordeauzjazzfestival.com
(mid November)
Christmas Market Bordeaux (Late November-December)
TRADITIONAL CRAFTS IN AQUITAINE:
basketwork, shepherds’crooks,
Basque linen and berets, Bayonne chocolate, Noutron knives
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AQUITAINE PROPERTIES FOR SALE
Click here for properties for sale in
Aquitaine
Contact us with your suggestions,
recommendations or corrections
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